Random extras

Saw several Compostela pilgrims, some on bikes.
A number of touring cyclists had trailers rather than panniers.
Touring cyclists, including me, going in opposite directions don't like to stop to chat and give up momentum unless someone appears to be having a physical, mechanical or directional problem.
There was also a flypast of french jets on June 6th.
In the north, for some reason, I got a number of cheers of encouragement from car and truck drivers.
There was always lots of room on campsites, which varied in price from about 5 to 18 Euros, for quite similar facilities. Only one site had toilet rolls in the loos.
One site (the cheapest) had free wifi across the entire site.
Could only manage to buy toilet rolls in sixes.
Every boulangerie that I asked at, agreed to make me a sandwich.

Lessons learnt log

1 Slow down, David!
I'm still working on being less target-focussed and enjoying the journey (in life, as well as on bike)
2 There will be somewhere to get food and water, somewhere to sleep...
I prefer to plan a little (except for presentations, which I prefer to ad lib) but I have a tent and money - it'll be OK.
3 French cemeteries have water on tap
4 Take photos of town plans (doesn't apply if you have a camera with film in it...)
5 Take soothing cream with you on long bike trips
6 Nature has its rhythm that doesn't involve clocks, or humans
7 I hate big cities (and I can't navigate in them)
8 If you're prepared to put in 5 hours on the bike every day, you can eat pretty much whatever you can lay your hands on and still lose weight (I lost about half a stone).
9 There's no place like home

Le Tour

Riders in the Tour de France (which starts in a few weeks) have it easy. They carry no luggage (compared to my 35-40 lbs), they have continuous support before, during and after the ride each day (David: none), they have rest days (David: none), they're on the bike less hours per day and they have a big bunch of other riders to take turns taking the brunt of the wind. Bunch of cissies.

Pictures

I've added pictures into the existing posts. Bit of a gap in the middle where battery ran short. Enjoy!

Day +1

Home ! Way sooner than anyone, especially me, expected. I thought it would take about 3.5 weeks to northern france then another 1 or 2 to Calais. But I was obviously much fitter than I thought and it also felt very right to come home from Caen. Truth be told, I'm a little homesick. Train tickets obviously a nightmare - only to be expected with a bike. I was sold the wrong tickets but nice conductor let me ride anyway. Terrifying dash across London between Waterloo and St Pancras.Then peace and joy. Next: Pictures, then Lessons Learnt.

Day 14 - the longest day

Feeling much stronger today. Perhaps yesterday's problem was not enough food the night before. Hills and wet weather slowed me down a bit today though. Went to be a tourist at the D-day ( they call it Jour-J) beaches and discovered it was June 6th. I didn't even know the day of the week, let alone the date.

These guys were all French, dressed up as Americans. There was lots of it about.

The beaches.

I stumbled upon a commemoration service; lots of soldiers etc. 6 flags and anthems. France was last flag and as it raised, the heavens opened again and it bucketed down on the crowd singing the Marseillaise. The idea of storming these beaches against machine gun fire etc, is mind-blowing. The memorials brought tears to my eyes. I hadn't realised/remembered that Caen was a ferry port until I got close, but the port is right next to the D-day beaches, and the idea of home, compared to today's weather (wet, wet, wet!) and tomorrow's forecast (thunderbolt and lightning - very very frightening ) led me to enquire about tickets tonight and I'm on my way home overnight, instead of battling Normandy's storms tomorrow towards Calais. Cumul 769 miles.

Bike bits

The bike is a Giant Escape M0, looks like a mountain bike with no suspension. 750 miles and no real problems. Front wheel slightly wobbly, but graunches a bit if I tighten it. I dry- lube the chain every few hundred miles whether it needs or not. Today the mirror broke off, but fixable with duct tape. Light grey matt paint. Pannier racks front and rear. Importantly, hydraulic disk brakes - they have immense braking power in wet and dry. I *love* these brakes. Bars have ergonomic gel grips, which I also love. It's about as wide as it is long with the bags on, so takes some maneuvering at times.